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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-hitch-2016-mazda-cx5-76138.aspx
Today on our 2016 Mazda CX5 we’re going to take a look at and also show you how to install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Custom Fit Class 3 trailer hitch receiver. Part number is 76138. Now here’s what our hitch is going to look like installed on our CX5. As you can see, it offers a really nice, clean appearance. The crosstube is going to be hidden behind the rear fascia there, so all we’re really going to be adding is the receiver tube opening and safety chain connection points. You can see it’s going to hug nicely right along the bottom edge of the fascia there and still offer us pretty good ground clearance here behind the vehicle. Now this is a Class 3 hitch so we’ve got a 2″ by 2″ receiver tube opening. That’s going to be ideal for just about any type of hitch accessory you want to use.
Class 3s are very versatile. Got the rounded-style reinforcement collar here around the end. Something different than other hitches you’ll see, there are two holes in the hitch. We only want to use the larger hole that’s closest to the front of the vehicle for securing our items. When we do that, we want to use a Class 3 accessory.
You’ll see we’re going to have plenty of room around there. Whether you’re using just a regular pin and clip, locking hitch pin, or anti-rattle device, you should have plenty of room. One anti-rattle device available is the j-pin stabilization system. That’s the only time we’re going to use this smaller hole. We’ve got a rounded steel stock safety chain connection point here. Should give us plenty of room to connect just about whatever size chain that you might have. Now this hitch offers a 675 pound tongue weight rating.
That’s the maximum downward force that we can put at our receiver tube opening. It gives us a 4,500 pound gross trailer weight rating. That’s going to be the total weight of our trailer and then anything we we’re to add onto it. You will, however, want to check the owner’s manual on the CX5 to see what its tow rating is, and go off whichever of those numbers are the lowest. Now a few measurements that are going to be helpful when it comes time to select your ball mount, bike rack, or hitch cargo carrier will be from the ground to the inside top edge of our receiver tube opening we’ve got about 13-1/2″. Then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of our bumper it’s about 3. Now to begin our installation, we’re going to need to lower down the exhaust.
We’ve got a few exhaust hangers. We’ve got two on the driver side here, one located on the front, one located on the backside of the main exhaust across the rear. We’re also going to have one here at the rear and one here at the front. Same position on both sides. Now before we lower those down, we do want to support our exhaust from underneath. We’re going to use a cam buckle strap, bring that right along the underside of that exhaust. That’s just going to give it something to rest on so we don’t do any damage closer towards the front. Now to lower these hangers down, it’s a good idea to use a little bit of spray lubricant. You’re probably going to need a big screwdriver or a pry bar. Basically, you just want to push out from behind. Once you’ve got those off, you just rotate them down. Or if you took it off the bottom, just rotate it up. Now while supporting your exhaust, we’ll put just a little slack in that strap. That should allow us to move it side to side a little bit so we can access our bolts. Now we’ll be using two attachment points on each side of our vehicle. They’re going to be exactly the same. Basically you’ve got the two slightly oblong holes here. We’re going to use the one closest to the front of the vehicle on each side. If we look all the way back just in front of the rear edge of the frame, there’s going to be a large hole. That’s right there. That’s actually going to act as our access hole. We’re going to take our coiled pull wire, going to go in our forward attachment point. We’re going to come down out. Place on the square hole spacer block and also our carriage bolt. We’re just going to use the standard pull wire method here. Feed them in separately, bring that down and through just like that. Now for the rear attachment point we’re going to use the reverse pull wire method. We’ll show you that now. In this case you want to put your spacer block and your bolt together, then thread on your pull wire. Going to place the bolt up in the frame, then your spacer block. Then w
: Installation , Trailer Hitch Installation – 2016 Mazda CX-5 – etrailer.com